David gets on his high horse about the fashion photography

As promised, today I want to discuss the darker side of fashion photography.  And also as promised, I’m going to get up on my high horse.

The fashion industry, and by default much of fashion photography, is selling sex.  Ok, there’s nothing wrong with sex.  Often this kind of fashion photography is designed to provoke.  We are bombarded with women’s breasts, women’s falsies, men in women’s dresses, and both men and women’s genitalia.  This world is a crotch fest.

Ok, at most levels even that doesn’t bother me, and it is certainly an improvement over the fashion magazines of the seventies and eighties when there were invariably women about to be dismembered by doberman pinschers.  I’m not quite sure what they were selling then – certainly not the much maligned doberman.  Now we only have Tom Brady being attacked by a doberman or wearing its collar.

There is taste and there is bad taste.  Yes, it’s a relative thing, and yes I’m even ready to forgive bad taste. I’m ready to accept the fact that bad taste can sell and that’s ultimately and unfortunately what it’s all about.

But the relativity and commerciality doesn’t alter the fact that you know when the limit’s been crossed.  It’s been crossed when things get degrading and therein lies the fundamental problem.

I’m a child of the sixties and the seventies.  Those were very turbulent times, and in the safety of retrospection, exciting times.  A great off-shoot of those times was the women’s movement.  We’ve seen women make great strides since then, and we’ve watched them take it all for granted and slip perilously backwards in the intervening years.

Frankly, there is nothing more beautiful than a beautiful woman in beautiful clothes.  But the darker side of that industry, and the photographs that promote Darth Vader’s view, objectivize and exploit women.  Worse many of the women involved are really young girls, essentially children.  And young girls seek to emulate this view of themselves, thus perpetuating the worst of this mindset.

It is perhaps the ultimate irony to see a young business woman in the airport studiously reading one of the glamor and fashion magazines.  In so doing she has become complicit  in the world that she claims to hate.  That, one man’s opinion, is what troubles me about this darker side of photography.

 

Mario Testino – In your face

I guess that I need to begin today’s blog with an apology.  A week ago I visited the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston to see the exhibit of fashion photographer Mario Testino.  Actually, this was two exhibits “British Royal Photographs,” and “In Your Face,” which highlights his work for fashion magazines.  My apology is that these splendid exhibits of this Boston born photographer are scheduled to close today.

These exhibits are the handiwork of museum curator Malcom Rogers.  Rogers has swollen the ranks of museum visitors by expanding audience appeal with such exhibits as “Speed Style and Beauty“, which exhibited vintage cars from the Ralph Lauren collection and “Fashion Show: Paris Collection 2006“.  What these exhibits do is legitimize what we already viscerally recognize as art.

As for Testino, there can be no question, that this is art and that this artist is a master.  The art-form is the heavily staged world of the fashion shoot.  The artist is assisted by a large crew of aids and assistants.  The set and the image are finely constructed.

Perhaps the best way to say this is to explore some of my favorite images from the collection. First and foremost “Sienna Miller, American Vogue, 2007.” This is a photographer’s photograph.  Almost the entire scene is in a pale blueish white except the figure, who explodes from her dress in color.  The statues all reach outward creating a sense of motion, while the model bends forward just slightly in contrast.  Do I have to mention the rule of thirds organization?

Then we have “Gweneth Paltrow, Paris 2005.”  The trick of having your subject jump is famous.  A lot of portrait artists use it to take away inhibition.  The subject suddenly concentrates on the jump and reveals themselves.   Actually, one of the interesting observations I had as I walked about the exhibit was that among all the celebrities photographed Paltrow invariably seemed spontaneous and herself.

Next, I was amazed by “Aston Kutcher Gets Real, 2008” for the cover of VMan.  We find Kutcher in a white suit his hands clasped together.  But wait!  His right arm is not connected to his right hand, and his torn jacket reveals,  not sinew and muscle, but a mechanical mechanism.  This is simple, genius, and compelling!  Well, maybe not so simple to execute.

And then there’s this, simply beautiful black and white portrait of  “Emma Watson Wearing White Gloves, 2010,”  It is just wonderful and perfect.

Just think, I made it all the way through this blog without showing you Tom Brady with a growling doberman or anybody’s genitalia.  Mario Testino is a talented artist and has contributed some magnificent and iconic images to our culture.    There is however, a world of saprophytic mutual exploitation in fashion, which also comes out in this exhibit.  Indeed, Testino played a major role in designing the exhibit and one of his stated intents, or so the entry text to the exhibit states, was to provoke. So tomorrow I’d like to climb up on my highest horse and discuss  this darker side.

The FSA in the Kodachrome era

Russell-Lee

Figure 1 – Russell Lee “Portrait of the Jack Whinery Family, Pie Town, NM 1940” from the Library of Congress and in the public domain.

If we look at the image of the children at the Weill school saying the pledge of allegiance, we see what is our standard view of the depression – it is black and white.  The same is true with Ken Burns’ “The Dust Bowl.”  We have a black and white world, and by virtue of its being black and white we are somehow immune to it.

I have also discussed the Autochrome process, which brought images from 1907 – 1937 into a very spectacular and vivid color.  I also described how Kodak introduced Kodachrome in 1937 and a new age of color photography.

A reader has been kind enough to share with me an article in the Denver Post showing FSA photographs taken with the Kodachrome process from the collection of the Library of Congress.  Suddenly that world becomes rendered in the characteristically striking color of Kodachrome film.  It was hard to chose a favorite and representative image.  Finally, I settled upon the image in Figure 1 taken by Russell Lee in 1940.  It is a picture of homesteader Jack Whinery and his family in Pie Town, New Mexico.

I like the Whinery picture because it is so like the many black and whites that we see from these federal projects.  We can no longer hide in the security of monotone.  And, of course, the current recession 2008 – 2013 raises eyebrows and makes us question the fragility of our perceived distance from these souls and immunity from their woes.

 

Toyo Miyatake and Dorothea Lange – Japanese internment camp photographs

Lange

Figure 1 – Dorothea Lange “Students at the Weill Public School reciting the Pledge of Allegence, 1942” Taken for the FSA, in the LOC, and in the public domain.

Yesterday we spoke about Ansel Adams’ photographs of the Manzanar Relocation Camp.  In that post I mentioned two other photographers Toyo Miyatake (1896-1979)  and Dorothea Lange (1895-1965) and I thought that it would be interesting to do some websearching for the photographs of each of them from these camps.

As it turns out, Toyo Miyatake Studios, originally founded by Toyo in 1926 in Los Angeles, was moved to the San Gabriel Valley in 1985.  It is still run by his family and remains a fluorishing and sought after portrait studio. On their website they have galleries of Toyo Miyatake’s photographs taken at Manzanar and also vintage photographs of the 1932 Los Angeles Olympics as well as vintage photographs of Los Angeles’ historic Little Tokyo District.  All of these can be found at the links I have provided and are really worth visiting.

As I discussed Dorothea Lange visited all of the internment camps.  Her black and white photographs of the Great Depression under the auspices of the Farm Security Administration are legendary.  Her photographs of the camps were also taken as part of her work for the FSA and, as a result, many of them were censored by a government, itself ambiguous about the relocation and internment of American Citizens.  Much of this work was not fully revealled until the early 1970’s.

Since they are in government possession there are currently several valuable archives to consult.  Check out:

As for Figure 1, this is an image by Lange taken on April 1942. and shows first graders at the Weill Elementary School reciting the pledge of allegiance.  Within days all of the students of Japanese descent had been relocated for the duration of the war.

 

 

Manzanar Relocation Center – images by Ansel Adams

Manzanar_girl_and_volley_ball

Figure 1 – “Manzanar Girl with Volley Ball, 1943,” Ansel Adams from the Library of Congress.

I’d like to make people aware of a very remarkable collection of photographs at the Library of Congress taken by Ansel Adams in 1943 of the American Citizens of Japanese descent, who were interned in the Manzanar Relocation Center. This work of which Figure 1 is a beautiful example represent a major departure for Ansel Adams from his traditional Monumental Landscape work, being instead intensely intimate portraits and scenes of camp life. It is strikingly interesting how over the last few years the diversity and breadth of Adam’s work is slowly becoming increasing apparent.

These works were originally published in 1944  by US Camera with text by Adams in a book entitled “Born Free and Equal.” and exhibited at the Museum of Modern Art in NYC.   The photographs were donated to the Library of Congress by Adams in 1966.

Ansel Adams’ photographs at Manzanar were the result of an invitation by his friend Ralph Merritt, who had recently been appointed camp director. It is significant that two other contemporary photographers documented Manzanar.  The first was Dorothea Lange, then a staff photographer for the War Relocation Authority.  Lange visited all eleven Japanese-American internment camps. The third photographer was internee Toyo Miyatake.  Miyatake had been a studio photographer in Los Angeles. His first photographs were taken with and improvised camera that he built with smuggled parts.  His activities were discovered, but Merritt allowed him to continue work and even to have his studio equipment shipped to the camp.  Initially he would set up the photograph, but only a camp guard was allowed to press and release the shutter.  This, of course, speaks volumes about the injustices being meted out to loyal American citizens at Manzanar.

In donating these beautiful images and important historical documentation to the Library of Congress Adams wrote:
“The purpose of my work was to show how these people, suffering under a great injustice, and loss of property, businesses and professions, had overcome the sense of defeat and dispair [sic] by building for themselves a vital community in an arid (but magnificent) environment…All in all, I think this Manzanar Collection is an important historical document, and I trust it can be put to good use.”

Snowflake Bentley

Snowflake_Bentley

William A. Bentley with his snowflake camera from the Wikicommons original source http://www.flickr.com
/photos/mobyd
/2908371931/
and in the public domain.

We cannot discuss the origins of photomicroscopy without mentioning the work of William A. Bentley (aka the Snowflake man)(1865-1831). Bentley was a self-taught Vermont farmer.  At age fifteen Bentley developed an interest in snowflakes. He learned to capture them beneath the lens of a microscope and tried to draw them in all their beautiful and unique detail. But he found that they melted before he could complete a drawing. If you think about it these are the most ephemeral of objects. Photomicrosopy was the obvious solution, but it still took Bentley two years to develop a camera and methodology.

Bentley_Snowflake5

Figure 2 – one of William A. Bentley’s snowflake photographs from http://snowflakebentley
.com/
snowflakes.htm and in the public domain

Today, of course, we recognize that this is an example of macrophotography.  With a 35 mm camera we would want to “blow up” the snowflake two or three times.  For a view camera this is more extreme, and that makes the required exposure somewhat demanding.  But for Bentley, it was all worth the effort.

Today, we learn as children that no two snowflakes are alike.  It was William A. Bentley, who made that discovery.  Today, as physicists, we are taught that this random uniqueness is characteristic of what we call fractal processes.  We should never dismiss the fundamental beauty of nature – even in its most fleeting processes.  Bentley recognized this important point.  He wrote profoundly in 1925:

“Under the microscope, I found that snowflakes were miracles of beauty; and it  seemed a shame that this beauty should not be seen and appreciated by others.  Every crystal was a masterpiece of design and no one design was ever repeated.  When a snowflake melted, that design was forever lost. Just that much beauty was gone, without leaving any record behind.”

Bentley died in 1931 after contracting pneumonia in a blizzard.  But this was not before he left us a very rich legacy of some of the finest and most emotion filled photomicrographs ever created see Figure 2).

 

At the Mall with my IPhone

Mall5

Figure 1 – “Roof of the Natick Collection,” (c) D E Wolf 2013

Mall6

Figure 2 – “Up escalator the Natick Collection,” (c) D E Wolf 2013

OK, so it’s January in New England.  I’m supposed to be out in the snow taking photographs.  But the truth is that it is so much warmer in the Mall – our local Mall, “The Natick Collection.”

So on a lazy January day I decided upon an experiment.  I would take my IPhone 4S with me to the mall and I would take some pictures.  In this case I decided to apply three rules to myself.  First, the goal was geometrics.  Second, only black and whites were allowed. And third, only geometrics would be allow.  That is no people.

Mall2

Figure 3 – Feet don’t fail me now! (c) D E Wolf 2013

The Natick Collection has this kind of imitation Frank Gehry design.  Outside they cheat and do it with an artificial wavelike facade.  It looks kind of like a boat and there are big sweeping lines inside and out.  As a result, inside the mall there is a cool framework, and this framework in turn casts some very interesting shadows.  These shadows create there own complementary geometric patterns.  The roof is made of glass.  It looks a bit like a greenhouse and on a good day the light streams in spectacularly.

So I headed up the escalator into the light.  I planted my feet on the soft upstairs carpeting and contemplated the path conveniently laid in rectangles before me.  I have a bit of difficulty in framing the image on my IPhone in what is, to me, an awkward position – not to mention that it’s a bit hard to see while you’re framing.

Mall3

Figure 4 – “Shadows the Natick Collection,” (c) D E Wolf 2013

In the end, my trip to the mall fits well to the description of being a “personal photographic wandering.” I think that confining oneself to using a cell phone camera was a very valuable exercise.  It let’s you focus on the photograph.  I was going to add “and not your equipment,” but you always have to know and understand your equipment and what it can do.

But as I walked around the mall contemplating storefronts and sushi bars, I remembered Ansel Adams’ burro named Miseltoe. Misletoe accompanied Adams on his first long trip into Sierras in 1920, when Adams was just eighteen. Mistletoe, carried almost a hundred pounds of gear and food, Adams a thirty-pound pack full of photographic equipment.

Mall4

Figure 5 – “Glass Column the Natick Collection,” (c) D E Wolf 2013

 

 

Mall1
Figure 6 – “Newbury Comics the Natick Collection,” (c) D E Wolf 2013

Photographic firsts #6 – the first microphotograph, John Benjamin Dancer and the invention of microfilm

Dancer the Scientist in his Laboratory

Figure 1 – John Benjamin Dancer daguerreotype stereo pair, “The Scientist in his Laboratory, 1851.” The image shows a sitter as “the scientist” creating a daguerreotype and surrounded by Dancer’s instruments and inventions. The image is in the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum and is in the public domain.

One of the things that you can do with a microscope is project the image of something very tiny onto a wall.  That is, you can blow it up or greatly magnify it.  The only functional limit to this seems to be the amount of light that you have.  How big can you make the image before it gets too faint to see?

If you think about it, you can actually use the same microscope to reverse the process.  You might look at a scene, say a cathedral or a painting, and use the microscope to make a very true but tiny image of the scene.  Physicists have a very cool name for this.  They say that the “laws of physics are reversible in time.”  Wow! Did I say time reversal?

Now suppose I put a photograph film or digital detector in the microscope.  Then if I exposed the film with light from the scene and subsequently developed it, I would have a very tiny image of the scene.  Such was the innovation and popularization of John Benjamin Dancer (1812-1887).  Dancer ran a microscope manufacturing company and also sold microscope slides that contained these wonderful early microfiche.   Several examples can be seen on the web at the site of the Whipple Museum of the History of Science in Cambridge UK.:

Photographic firsts #5 – the first photomicrograph

FoxTalbot-First-Photomicrograph

Figure 1 – the first photomicrograph a transverse section of a stem taken by William Henry Fox Talbot in 1839 from the Masters of Photography website ( and in the public domain).

Let’s turn today to the question of who took the first successful photomicrograph.  We need to be precise about definition.  A photomicrograph is a photograph of something small under a microscope.  This is as opposed to a microphotograph, which is a very small photograph that might require a microscope to see it, but could, in fact, be an image of something very large.

William_Henry_Fox_Talbot,_by_John_Moffat,_1864

Figure 2 – William Henry Fox Talbot by John Moffat, 1864 from the Wikimedia commons, Michael Maggs source and in the public domain.

It is interesting that this story connects with Charles Darwin.  Charles Darwin and his wife Emma nee Wedgewood were first cousins.  They shared a grandfather, Josiah Wedgewood, I (1730-1795) and an uncle Thomas Wedgewood (1771-1805), who was an early experimenter in photography.  The interrelationships in this very important English scientist and intellectual family are very complex, but you may sort it all out from the Darwin-Wedgewood family tree.  Of course, the name Wedgewood is familiar to us from their very distinctive fine china, and it is indeed the case that Wedgewood Porcelain was founded by Josiah Wedgewood, I and subsequently led by Josiah Wedgewood, II, Emma’s father.

In 1802, uncle Thomas published  “An Account of a method of copying Paintings
upon Glass, and of making Profiles, by the agency of Light upon Nitrate of Silver” in
the Journals of the Royal Institution, it states:
“In following these processes, I have found that the image of small objects, produced by means of the solar microscope, may be copied without difficulty on prepared paper. This will probably be a useful application of the method; that it may be employed successfully, however, it is necessary that he paper be placed at but a small distance from the lens.”

Now, we have no evidence that Thomas Wedgewood ever succeeded in capturing a photomicrograph.  There is however, some evidence that he and Sir Humphry Davy (1778 – 1829) did attempt to do so.

A solar microscope, by the way, is simply a microscope that uses the sun as a source of light.  This is usually accomplished by means of a mirror that reflects the sunlight from outside a window into the microscope.

The first known photomicrograph, and therefore the credit of being the inventor of photomicroscopy goes to the inventor of photography William Henry Fox Talbot (1800-1877).  This is shown in Figure 1 – a photomicrograph of a botanical transverse section of a stem, 1839. A photograph of Fox Talbot taken by John Moffat in 1864 is shown in Figure 2.

As natural history came more and more into intellectual vogue in the nineteenth century the act of looking through a microscope became more and more familiar.  You would expect to see a circular image surrounded by black.  As a result, the framing of Fox Talbot’s photomicrograph by a circular field of view has as much to do with viewer expectation as it does with how the picture was optically taken.

* Here is an excellent link to the history of photomicroscopy.